Right side 4 inch drop axle ,axel pin, disk brake roter and 77 Gm calipers, 1 1/4 wheel spacer Ford spinals with Timkin Bearings
.jpg "Left Front Disk Brake and Steering arm.")
Left side drivers front disk brake, axel pin and wheel spacer, steering arm, lower shock mount and spring perch., and shock.
The v stamp on the front of the axle means vintage its a perpiotory line of axels designed and sold by Vintage Parts U.S.a. a company in oregon they specialize in Hot Rod and Rat Rod and street rod parts.The ford spindles and the axel kit came from speedway motors in Nebraska the steering arm and drag link came from Syders Antique Auto parts in Ohio as well as the steeriing box and drag link and steering box arm , there all new parts. The steering shaft is new I incorperated two double d borgeson universal joints at the top of the steering shaft for the stationary tilt wheel designed an engineered to be at the correct angle when sitting in the bucket seats, pro car seats by scat. the same company that makes rotating assembleys for our toys.the COLUMN has the original blinker assembley and 4 way flashers that were in the chevy s 10, 15 inch steering wheel, horn, flashes all auto meter gauges, maybe i souldnt sell this after all???. going back to the 4 inch drop AXLE it has extra leafs, i bought an after market spring pack used the model a originals and alternated the leafs using a cut off saw for VARIED lenghts thats why it sets above the 29 inch tall tires instead of dropped in the front and using 15 inch tires to give the model a the raked look because they didnt use a drop axle, extra spring pack, extra hieght and extra spring cushion. designing and buiding the steering was a challage I can't make this sound like a walk in the park cause it wasnt. I am building this site my self so if it looks weird or misspelled words, please bare with me.
2003 chevy s 10 four link rear end all adjustable so your not dog tracking. The front straight axle is setup the same all adjustable, and mounted for camber. I used the stock brake cables and made ferrules for the cable housings for the e brake, the e brake holds the car solid and used the original 1930 hand brake lever. I built a very strong center cross member from 2x6 inch steel rectangle cross member and 6x6 box steel drive line loop. Heim joints on all rod ends i built heavy duty boxes for the adjustable four link arms that attach to the inner part of the frame and the top of the differential and the bottom are ladder bars from speedway motors using the original leaf spring plates for the bottom of the diff and a 3 inch aluminum spacer block for lowering the body. I did not box the frame, its a four banger not a Hemi. the tires are bias-ply this tracks straight with no hands on the wheel at any speed and there a little bumpy when cold you may want to install radials. With the bias-ply tires 28 to 30 pounds is good a 32 pounds and the way i setup the suspension, well you have a high speed go cart and a nice tight suspension that corners like a go- cart ,no pitch, yaw, or roll. I never did like a wishy washy suspension.There,s a big amp under the seat also so when your doing 70 down the freeway with the windows down, crank up the tunes as you rip by a Tesla.